People search for stud wall vs drywall as if they were two rival products. On most jobs around Harlow and London they are two parts of the same wall. The real choices are which frame to use, which boards go on it and whether you need a frame at all, and this guide explains how those choices are usually made on commercial schemes and residential conversions.
A stud wall is the frame: upright studs fixed between a head track and a floor track (or timber plates). Drywall is the plasterboard screwed to that frame, which is then taped and jointed or skimmed. Together they make a drylined partition, and that is what most internal walls in Cat-A offices, hotels and flat conversions are.
The real comparisons are metal stud against timber stud, a framed partition against board fixed straight onto masonry, and dry finishes against wet plaster. Each has its place, and the drawings and specification usually decide it before any work starts on site.
On commercial work, metal stud is the default. Systems from British Gypsum, Knauf and Siniat are tested as complete build-ups, so a set stud size, board type and number of layers gives a known fire and acoustic performance. Common stud widths are 50, 70, 92 and 146mm, usually at 600mm centres. Centres close to 400mm where tiles, heavy fixtures or taller walls need it. Metal stays straight and consistent and does not shrink or twist.
Timber stud, usually 47 x 75mm or 47 x 100mm, still suits many loft conversions and smaller residential fit-outs in North London and the home counties. It is easy to fix into, works well with existing timber floors and roofs, and is quick to build in small rooms. The downside is movement as the timber dries out, which can show up as cracked joints if the wood has not been properly conditioned.
Most of the performance comes from the type of board and the number of layers. Typical choices include:
On sound masonry a frame is often not needed. With dot and dab, the board is stuck to the blockwork with adhesive. It is quick and cheap, but the wall needs to be reasonably flat, and the gap behind the board can let air through unless it is sealed. MF wall lining or independent lining channels suit uneven walls and leave room for services. For heritage walls or patch repairs, wet plaster over a bonding or hardwall coat is often the better choice, because it follows the existing surface and matches the finishes around it.
For main contractors and fit-out principals, the choice usually comes down to the specified system, the fire and acoustic ratings required, the deflection allowance at the head and the programme. Metal stud partitions go up quickly and are easy to sequence around first-fix services. They are then finished to Level 3, 4 or 5 depending on the lighting and decoration.
For loft conversions, Building Regulations require fire protection to the escape route and sound insulation to new floors and walls, so the board specification matters as much as the frame. Your building control body or approved inspector will confirm what applies. Cost depends on wall height, ratings, number of layers, access and finish level, so it is worth having the drawings properly priced rather than relying on a rate per square metre.
Not quite. The stud is the frame and drywall is the plasterboard fixed to it, so most drylined partitions are both.
Either can work. Timber is common in lofts because it ties into the existing structure easily, while metal stays straighter and avoids shrinkage cracks, so the right choice depends on the design and the fire and acoustic requirements.
It depends on the build-up. Adding mineral wool, acoustic board and a second layer of board can improve it a lot, and manufacturers publish tested ratings for each system.
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